Monday, October 26, 2009

Ice Climbing In New Brunswick!


There IS Ice in New Brunswick and there is actually a small, faithful community as well. There is quite a lot of ice further to the south, but really, it is scattered everywhere, there are also tons of mixed climbs established amongst the areas! The Bay of Fundy, Saint John and Grand Falls are just some of the concentrated areas. I don't know if there is anyone viewing my page that has an excuse to go here, but if you do, go climb some ice. I personally have a lot of family in the Maritmes so....I will be bringing my tools if I ever visit in the winter cause it looks goooood!!! Tons of routes and potential, barely any avy hazard and no people! There is a really good website with current conditions and beta and a great guide included! EnjOY!!
Link: Ice Climbing NB - Website
Link: New Brunswick Ice Climbing Guide

Music!


This amazing drum & bass group that is renowned for their live instrumental sets come from New Zealand and they have captivated me since day one. Lots of amazing vocals, live instruments and amazing beats, if you like any sort of electronic music you will fall in love with these guys, they are so different and so original. Give them a listen and see what you think! This one is called 'ONE' and the flow is unbelievable............
Link: Shapeshifter - ONE

Mt.Orford - Quebec Sport & Bouldering!


Mt.Orford is located just east of Montreal, Quebec on the way to Sherbooke, Quebec and it is a premier rock climbing destination! The best known crag in the eastern townships, Mount Orford is really worth the drive. The cliff is host to about 60 routes, most of them completely bolted. There are also about 100 boulder problems, scattered in the boulder field at the base of the crag. One of Quebec's most developped sport climbing destinations, it is certainly the area with the largest concentration of hard routes in the province. It is estimated that more than 75% of routes graded 5.13c or harder in Quebec are at mount Orford. Although long and pumpy is the norm here there are lots of moderates to get on as well! The rock here is Gneiss, it's steep, well featured, and really fun if you looking for something different than the typical granite in the east! Along with the great climbing, their is an ambundance of other activities around like mountain biking, hiking and swimming/lounging around to keep you occupied. Another must visit when the fall colours are coming out, beautiful!

The guides included can be used together, the bouldering one is in french but the sport routes guide has the same directions and is in english. Everythink else should be easy to reference. Enjoy!

Link: Orford Sport Guide
Link: Orford Bouldering

Here is also a sweet video of the SICK bouldering at Orford….


video












Bon Echo - Epic Rock Climbing Experience In Ontario!


Bon Echo is a huge granite cliff located between Ottawa & Toronto. The cliff hangs over the beautiful Mazinaw Lake in Bon Echo Provincial Park and hosts a huge amount of routes some being amoung the best in Ontario! Almost all the routes start from the water and travel their way up several pitches of exposed, beautiful climbing. Many of the climbs can feel spicy for the grade here but they host very good protection by today's standards, with a few bolts thrown in here and there. There is an Alpine Club of Canada Clubhouse in close vicinity, and although access is not straight-forward, they offer a shuttle boat several times a day to get to the cliffs. There is a boat launch at the campground on the west side of the lake and the cliffs are located on the east. You can camp at Bon Echo, stay at the Clubhouse (become a member of ACC), or if these are full, stay at one of the many motels or campgrounds nearby. In winter once the lake is frozen up, there is one really nice long WI4 ice climb as well! The experience here is not to be missed, several amazing classics!


Included here is the full guide seperated into six parts for easier uploading, enjoy! Go to the sidebar labelled rock climbing downloads on this page and find them there!

Sunday, October 25, 2009

Cuba Climbing!!!


Most people by now have heard of the unreal rock climbing in Cuba! Amazing people, awesome climbing and an unforgettable experience, make this place a premier destination. Karst Limestone sport climbing is the theme and there is a little something for everyone! Travelling to Cuba can be a bit of an adventure, especially for an American, but it is worth the effort. Typically you need to be sure to orgainze yourself very well before going with all your accomodations and plans worked out before being able to even enter the country. Make sure to look into it, this site offers some great info. The link is to the Cuba climbing web site that should get you started on the right path. Another addition to the tropical climbing destinations.

Link: Cuba's Climbing Site

Frenchman's Coulee - Washington State!


This place I discovered is called the Frenchman's Coulee. It is located between Seattle & Spokane right off the Interstate-90. The climbing itself is in the close vicinity of the Columbia River near the town of Vantage. It offers a desert like setting with most of the climbing on Basalt, desert like towers! This place should be on the list for any climber living near the state of Washington or passing through. The guide included here is just a reference to the good stuff for visitors. This place is so unique, it hosts some amazing trad routes, lots of sport routes and has a really nice atmosphere in the area they call the Echo Basin. The crag is also located about an hour and a half from the little climbing mecca town of Leavenworth, WS, that was just featured in the most recent copy of 'Climbing' magazine! Make the effort, you will be impressed.
Link: The Coulee Guide

Climbing In Bermuda!


There is sport climbing, beach-side bouldering and an amazing amount of potential for deep-water soloing on the island of Bermuda! Mostly made up of limestone the routes range from ok to amazing and if you are ever in the mood for a unbelievable island paradise with rock climbing, visit here. All the climbing here is very accessible, almost all beachside and the people are awesome. Just thought I would share this because I never knew until a few days ago. This is the first installment of many tropical climbing destinations. This is a link to a fully in-depth topo site. Enjoy!
Link: Climb De Rock - Bermuda Topo


Whitewater Paddling in Idaho!


There are few unbelievable rivers in Idaho that are worth a paddle!!! This state is remote, mountainous and it has everything you would want in a wilderness, whitewater experience. The Salmon River being one of the classics is a must do if you are in the area. Rated a Class II to IV there are several different sections and forks that provide everything from a full on experience to a multi-day adventure through Idaho's amazing wilderness. The Snake River's Hell's Canyon, is another must do! There are a lot of boaters in this area so just ask around at local shops and such and you should be able to get some good beta or a partner. Included here is: Two websites with incredible resources and guidebooks to buy, some maps of different section of the Salmon and a good map of the state of Idaho. As far as guidebooks go, 'Idaho River Tours' & 'The Idaho Paddler' are great! Enjoy!
Link: All About Rivers.Com
Link: Paddling.Net
Link: Map Of Main Salmon River
Link: Map - Middle Fork, Salmon River
Link: Idaho Map/Orientation

Saturday, October 24, 2009

Val-David Bouldering

Val-David is located just north of Montreal and it is one of the premier destinations of Quebec. It has lots of great trad and sport routes, it is very close to Mt. Tremblant and it is a destination not to be missed if you are in this part of Canada. If you are interested in a route climbing topo, inquire at the town info center, they are very helpful. Definitley amongst the classic areas of Eastern Canada, this bouldering crag has so many amazing routes it's hard to know where to start. Granite, good landings, easy approach and great problems are the highlights of this spot, this topo is just a little taste! Bring a pad, some beers, good people and come and crank hard! Enjoy the Quebecois atmosphere....Allez!
Link:Val-David Bouldering Topo

Music!

This addition is by the group called 'Crown City Rockers' they are a instrumental hip hop group that sounds like nothing else you've ever heard. They have two albums that sound so original it's hard not to like them (that is if you are into this genre of music) Lots of live instruments and amazing vocals. Listen to this song and see what you think. They play live sets with lots of bands across North America at big outdoor events. Feel it!
Link: Sidestep - Crown City Rockers

Friday, October 23, 2009

Cory Richards!

About 3 years ago with a Swiss friend of mine by the name of Klaus, I had the privelege to climb with Cory and honestly at the time I did not know he was so talented. He has been everywhere, from Peru, to Canmore, to the Himalayas and his pictures reflect this. Check out his page and you will get an idea of a person who has seen many things most people would never imagine. When I saw him in Rock & Ice, he looked like he had barely survived his (almost) plummet into the sea, wow Cory! The intense life can be so fullfilling in some weird way! The picture is of Cory on Moonlight (WI4) in the Kananaskis Country, Alberta.......Awesome~
Link:Cory's Photos!

Into Adventure Photography


A very awesome guy I had the pleasure of climbing with by the name of Mark is an adventure photographer, and I would just like to share his website with everyone because it is........amazing! Some of his pictures from Hawaii are unreal, he has surely seen his share of adventure. I love pictures, they motivate me to get to place I have not had the pleasure of being, have a look yourself!
Link: Into Adventure Website




Music!


Another shared moment in music! This guy is named Ginkgo and he sings french Reggae/Folk. It sounds so amazing when you are in the mood for this type of laid back music. Ginkgo is a tree/plant/leaf that supposedly is a very good natural remedy that people use today, the music works well!!!Enjoy.................
Link: Tous Sunir - Ginkgo

Monashee Provincial Park


What a magical place!!!! A must for those looking for an amazing backcountry experience. The park is located between Vernon, BC and Arrow Lake (Nakusp, BC) and it is a place you wont forget. Old growth rainforest and big snowcapped mountains are the norm and the park provides some ample opportunites for backcountry camping/hiking, mountaineering/climbing and scrambling. Spectrum Lake is a great overnight trip, well suited for a intermediate, and Mt.Footsall is a highly recommended climb/scramble. Even the drive into this place is a beautiful adventure, passing the upper Shuswap River and Sugar Lake, be sure to check out Rainbow Falls along the way, it's worth the small detour! Included here is a link to the Park Site for the Monashees, go and find out for yourself and watch for bears hahaaha!
Link: Monashee Park Website


Hiking: Okanagan Valley & Monashee Mountains

There are so many options in the area of the Okanagan Valley & the Monashee Mountains (nearby) for hiking! The Okanagan itself hosts lots of trails from beginner to advanced to keep most people busy. Kelowna itself has a wide range of trails, as well as Vernon, which is situated very close to the Monashee Mountains, which hosts tons of options; from moderate hikes to full-on multi-day adventures. Included here is a link to a very nice site steering you in the right direction. A good backcountry map of the area is also recommended, seeing how most trails involve travel along rough backcountry roads. If you are in the Vernon area, Bluenose Mtn. & Dennison Lake Trail are definitley highly recommended! Have a fun adventure!
Link: Okanagan Area Hiking Guide

Hedley Bouldering - Middle of Nowhere!

This granite bouldering destination is so unique, and it is so good! Located basically between Penticton and Princeton BC in the middle of nowhere for most folk. If you are on your way to Skaha from Vancouver or on your way to Squamish from Skaha, whatever, check this place out. Very good problems on great rock!! Quite similar to Eagle Pass Boulders; a great destination if you are passing through, tread lightly and climb hard!
Link: Hedley Boulder Topo

Spillimacheen - It's A Rock Climbing Area!!

It is located between Golden BC & Radium Hot Springs in the Columbia Valley and it is a very unique Dolomite Rock Climbing destination. This sport climbing crag offers very technical, pumpy climbing on steep rock in a dramatic setting and is a must for those looking for a great experience. The camping is free and it is situated a 10 minute walk from the crag. Also, the Spillimacheen River is located very close to the cliffs and it offers a very awesome whitewater paddling experience for those looking for other activities in the area. Get out here and enjoy the experience of SPILLI!!

Link: Spillimacheen Rock Guide

Music!


Every once and a while I will throw in a song that has reminded me of a cetain outdoor experience, hopefully you can enjoy it too! This one is 'THE SPIRIT GUIDE' by an amazing band from Nelson, BC called 'THE WASSABI COLLECTIVE' They are an amazing mix of reggae, indie, fusion, rock, funk, and everyone should love them!!!Enjoy...........
Link: Spirit Guide - Wassabi Collective

High Rim Trail - Okanagan Valley!

The High Rim Trail is a backpacking/hiking trail that extends from Vernon BC all the way to Kelowna BC along a very scenic sub-alpine area. The hiking is never too strenuous, the view is amazing, and the ambience is soooo great you will remember it for a long time! There are many options; from a simple day hike, to a 52km, 3 day trip, there are many access points along the way that allow you to shortcut parts of the route. There are also many good backcountry sites along the way and you could even ski/snowshoe the trail during the winter months. All the access points are good with a 2WD and this is a must on anyone's list visiting or living in the area that is an avid outdoors person. Included here is a very nice map of the trail and the surrounding area. Hope it helps.....Enjoy!

Link: Map Of High Rim Trail & Area

Alice Boulder Near Pembroke, Ontario

Developed by some keen Outdoor Adventure students from Algonquin College in Pembroke,Ontario. This granite boulder is high quality and is the perfect place to learn how to boulder. You can camp right there, and there are some short trad routes nearby. Although it is quite the drive for one boulder, if you were ever in the area it would be worth the visit. And for all you Adventure students, here you go, get out there and enjoy!There is also rumour of some really good boulders near Calabogie, go explore!
Link: Alice Boulder Guide

Bouldering Near Ottawa!


There is so much climbing around the area and who knew! Hahaha! In this post there are two areas included: First, there is the CeGep (quebec junior college) Boulders that are located right near the college, pretty much in downtown Hull (which is right across the river from Ottawa). The quality is very good and  there is lots of hard problems to be had. Second, located near the Luskville climbing area is 'The Shrine Boulders'. The rock is amazing, and the boulders here are worth the journey, especially during the hot summer months. Get out here and climb if you live here or if you are on the way through. The Ottawa Valley is a truly beautiful spot~!
Link: CeGep Boulders Topo
Link: The Shrine Boulders Topo

Ice Climbing Near Ottawa

There is ice climbing near Ottawa??!!
Yeah there is!!!!!! And there is quite a lot of potential for more, especially during the cold winters. Avalanche danger is almost non-existent and there is a lot of potential here for mixed routes as well. Two places; Calabogie and Luskville provide an enormous amount of routes considering the area. Have fun and be sure to keep exploring!

Link: Ice Routes

Rock Climbing Near Ottawa!


The Eardley Escarpment as some call it, is a huge area of granite cliffs with bouldering, trad, and sport climbing for all levels and abilities. It is located very close to the Ottawa/Gatineau area in and around Gatineau Park. The cliffs are a great place to learn or a place to challenge yourself. Be weary that some of the routes here were graded a long time ago, so, add a few grades to some of the older climbs. Peggy, 5.8, is a classic on the 'Home Cliff' and is a must for any traditional climber. In the fall with the changing, colorful leaves these crags are highly recommended! This is a really good, extended, and informative GUIDE!!
Link: Luskville Crags Guide

Eagle Pass Boulders

This is a really nice find by a buddy of mine Johnny. Really sweet Gniess boulders right near the town of Revelstoke. There are quite a few good problems and they are a great stopover on the way through, seeing how they can be quickly accessed from the Trans-Canada. Careful on the road on the way in, it can be quite dodgy sometimes and bring a few brushes. There is some more potential here for sure!

Link: Eagle Boulders Guide

New Ice Climbs In Western BC


There is a lot of ice in the west and not just in the Rockies. Here is an update on new routes in the general area of Southwest BC. Lots of new climbs and mixed routes to be had. Have a good winter!
Link: Ice Climbs Update for Southwestern BC

Skaha Route Updates

There has been a lot of action at the Skaha Bluffs in Penticton since the last guide book. This is the most recent update with quite a few new routes included at the Morning Glory Wall & The Screeching Wall. There is the new awesome parking lots and many new additions up there. The parking lot closes October 31st, 2009 this year so there is only one week left!!  Get out there!

Link: Skaha Update

Silver City

This spot is located between Banff & Lake Louise, Alberta on Castle Mountain. It's mainly a sport climbing area with about 40 routes and room for more. It hosts great quartzite climbing similar to the Back Of The Lake and has a wonderful view overlooking the Bow Valley. Also a very good place to go in the spring and fall because it's a sun trap.
Link: Silver City Topo

Ellison Provincial Park

This is a very scenic climbing area near Vernon, B.C on some really Squamish like Granite that is not typical of the area. It is home to one of the best bouldering traverses in the Okanagan and one of the best crack climbs around "Who Done It", at 5.8, involves a beautiful layback crack for 25 meters overlooking Okanagan Lake. The cliffs are adjacent to a beautiful campground and 3 beaches, and there are tons of places to go cliff jumping! Have fun!


Link: Ellison Rock Topo

Cougar Canyon Bouldering

Bouldering topo for the Cougar Canyon climbing area in Vernon, B.C. Really nice Gneiss! There is enough here to spend a couple of days on and really nice in the heat of summer! Some super problems here, from V0 - V10, there is a little something for everyone to try.
Link: Bouldering Guide

Backcountry BC!


This is a link to a really good source of information for back country recreation sites in BC. It includes every little remote fishing/camping lake in BC pretty much. If you want to find a amazing camp spot away from the crowd this is the way to do it. Many require a 4WD vehicle but there are tons that are not far up a Forest Service Road that you can access with 2WD and that are completely free. They work really well for fishing and paddling bases. Enjoy!
http://www.sitesandtrailsbc.ca/

Massacre Rocks


This is a topo for a really nice area in Idaho, US.
Mostly Basalt sport climbing with a few trad lines amongst it all. It hosts good weather and is not a far drive from City of Rocks in Idaho! There is also quite a few links on this topo to Idaho's amazing bouldering. Check it out!!
http://www.isu.edu/outdoor/climbing/massprint.htm

Aberdeen Columns

Getting it all started! Here is the first topo of an area near Vernon, BC called the Aberdeen Columns. The rock is Basalt and it hosts some really good crack climbing in a remote location. Trad climbers unite, hand, finger, and fist jams await you!!!Two well known climbers have been developing this crag for about 2 years and now there are over 120 climbs! Well worth the journey to this sick spot!