Saturday, January 30, 2010
Along with the exploring we have been doing latley and a huge wealth of information from a former Revy climber Al, I have constructed another topo addition to the climbing in the Revelstoke area. The potential here is awesome, with little snow latley, lots of climbs that wouldnt regularly be climbable have been getting traffic! Enjoy the winter!
Link: Revelstoke Ice Mini-Topo
Wednesday, January 27, 2010
Information on this climbing in a small area called Greeley east of Revy has just been shared with me by a very generous guy that use to live and climb in Revelstoke. Here is a basic idea of some of the good moderate routes in the area, sounds so great! As I climb and adventure here a little more I will add to this mini-topo. Gotta get out on this stuff while its still cold enough. So awesome that people are so willing to share what they know. We could have a real good amount of information about ice climbing for this area by the end of winter to share for years to come! SWEET, ENJOY!
Link: Greeley Ice Mini-Topo
Thursday, January 14, 2010
Most climbers by now have heard of the epic sport climbing at El Potrero Chico near Monterrey, Mexico. El Salto is located in the same vicinity but it offers a very unique experince compared to that of Potrero. El Salto is really off the map, the climbing is steep and strenuous and the quality is amazing. Be prepared for an epic just getting to this spot, but if you make the effort you wont be sorry. No phones, no materialistic attachments, just sick climbing and a true experience of Mexican culture. Really steep, long bolted routes is the norm here, and if you climb 5.11+ and above this is a really nice side trip if you are climbing at El Potrero for a while! Most people I've met have fell in love with this place, gorgeous streaked limestone full of tufas, stalagtites and edges. If you meet some friendly local climbers, they are usually super helpful and they will give you some good beta. Included here is a vague topo of El Salto, but forwarned this is just a description of the routes and some general knowledge of the area, it will take some effort to get here. Have fun and experience everything the awesome country of Mexico has to offer! The photos are courtesy of my college friend and super duper climber Leslie Timms.
Time for yet another installment of great music! This group is called Band Of Horses, they are from North and South Carolina and their music is really awesome. It's a indie rock/alternative sound that is very original. The first time I actually listened to these guys I recognized their music from several cool movies, they sound soo good, they have a certain vibe that I can't explain! I will throw on a few songs so everyone can get a good listen. Hope you enjoy it!
Song: The Funeral - Band of Horses
Song: The Great Slave Lake - Band of Horses
Song: Our Swords - Band of Horses
Saturday, January 9, 2010
This little pristine area is located above Bow Summit on the Icefields Parkway near Helen Lake in Alberta. With a magnificent view, atmosphere and ambience the climbing here is truly unbeatable. If you climb 5.11 this is a place well worth the visit. Picture two giant boulders sitting all alone in the alpine looking over the Rocky Mountains with huge exposure, sick routes and no people!!! You have 'War Dance' which is a super arete 11c sport climb, 'Mystery Machine' a 3 pitch 11a trad route that are both classics worth the visit alone! Enough of trying to coax you into coming here. The hiking route to Helen Lake is already a classic, how about throwing some stout climbing in to up the ante! Haha! A true Alberta Rockies experience. The guide included here is really good, nearby there is some really good camping at Mosquito Creek that should put you within minutes of the area. Enjoy!!!
Link: SITTING BULL - SUGAR CUBE Mini Rock Guide
Friday, January 8, 2010
Driving east from Sicamous all of sudden you enter a much deeper valley and poof! 4 really good ice routes and a whole bunch of cliffs rise above the Trans Canada Highway. On the north side of the highway there are 3 areas with ice up to WI5 and on the south side, a big blue WI4 hidden in the forest. There is definitley potential here for many more routes with some exploration and even though the season is probaly short, it is a really beauty place to spend a day close to home. The routes have little or no avi hazard and they all have short approaches. Along with the routes around 3VG, there is enough here to enjoy a good few days of ice climbing. Although the climbs are on Crown Land, make sure to ask permission first from the locals seeing how some of the approaches pass over private property. Mini-topo included here, keep on exploring and i'm sure it will grow! Please tread lightly and play safe!
Link: Malakwa Ice Mini Topo