Tuesday, April 26, 2011

New Boulder Problems In Vernon!

Springtime is here and recently I have been doing some cleaning and trail maintenance in Cougar Canyon and at nearby Ellison Provincial Park. During the process there has been some new problems that I've discovered and some of them are definitely destined to become classics! Cougar keeps surprising me with more and more beautifully featured rock popping out of nowhere. And as well a nearby area in the vicinity of Ellison (Granite I might add) has really revealed some good potential and some nice problems on excellent rock only minutes from the road. Here are some updates (and photos) of the problems, and I will be adding the Cougar additions to a new updated guidebook that I will post come summer time. ENJOY!


1 - Cool Breeze - V3/5
Head past the 'slackline boulder' take a right towards 'Jaws' and instead of heading right head left, follow tape/cairns and you will end up at two very chilly caves. The one in front of you on right is 'Cool Breeze'.

Start low down in the cave on the left. Bad feet lead you onto the face where the more left you stay the harder it becomes. Very cool crimps and grippy rock is the highlight of this one. Many variations are possible, the more right you stay the easier it is. Named after the freezer type breeze that comes from the icy cave.

2 - Achilles - V6
Head towards the Secret Boulders from the 'Down Under' problem, and after about 25m you will see this pedestal type boulder on your left. Marked with cairns and tape.

Start with a sloper for the left and a small hold in the overhang for the right. Heel hook (essential) and try your best by campus-ing, etc.. to gain the left trending rail. Once established, get you feet out and gun for crappy holds to the finish. Great movement and pumpy moves (good landing, high finish).

3/4 - Cold FX Cave - V2/V5
Head past the 'slackline boulder' take a right towards 'Jaws' and instead of heading right head left, follow tape/cairns and you will end up at two very chilly caves. The one in front of you on the left is 'Cold FX'.

Find to positive holds deep down in the cave, bump up to bigger ones, throw out left and then up to the lip and over to finish. The right variation (harder) uses and desperate rail and a small sidepull to gain the lip.


5 - Talons - V3

Start on a big jug down low in the cave, throw out right to a sloper/sidepull, gun for the lip, then heel hook and move out left until its possible to top out. Classic granite problem! (Good landing)

7/8 - Stands With A Fist - V2//1

Start on two low pinchy type holds. Move up the arete with wild feet and small holds to a fun top out. Firing out right after the start eases the grade with bigger holds to choose from. Great short granite problem

9 - Scarecrow - V4+
Even more Shhhhh....

Start low on the slopey rail. Gun for the lip and start out right. awkward feet and desperate (sweet) holds will see you through to the highest point of the boulder. Would be a classic in Squamish. Fun granite!

10 - Men In White Gloves - V2
Even more Shhhh....

Start low on the slopey rail but go straight up to the lip. Climb up over onto the slab with heel hooks and no holds (friction).

Let me know if anyone has any more questions about these problems or their whereabouts!!!

Saturday, April 16, 2011

Local Updates

A March Climbing Day In The Okanagan!

Here in Vernon the rock climbing season has started!! The weather is pretty nice (most of the time) now, Skaha is open and soon it might stop raining in Revelstoke & Squamish so we can get out and start adventuring! There are couple of updates of mention that I will post here. The Ellison and Cougar Canyon Bouldering topo/guides have had a little update and there are two new routes that have been bolted in Cougar Canyon!

Cougar Arete 5.10c 
3 Pitches All Bolted (can be climbed mixed as well)
It starts just to the left of Gear 4 Fear, the first pitch climbs a long face to a hanging belay. The second pitch is the money with exposed crimpy moves right off the belay and the onto the arete and a small roof! The third pitch is shorter but also has some exciting steep moves to finish. Will be classic with some traffic! Fall 2010

Mantle Breakdown - 5.11a
1 Pitch All Bolted (second pitch variation of Stellar or Tres Amigos)
Make some face moves off of the chain belay out right and onto the exposed arete. Reachy moves and a big mantle (crux) make up this fun pitch. Full value! Spring 2011

Cougar Canyon Bouldering Guide Updated Version (2011)
Cougar Bouldering Guide 2011
Secret Garden Bouldering 2011

Ellison Provincial Park Rock Climbing Updated Version (2011)
Ellison Guide 2011

Aberdeen Columns Crack Climbing Lumby, B.C (2010)
Aberdeen Columns Guide

Bat Roof 5.10b - Ellison

Who Done It - 5.8 Ellison Style

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

A Recommended Route


This is a classic boulder problem located right off the start of the bouldering trail. It starts with two big underclings underneath the detached part of the boulder, then it slaps its way up and left up an immaculate fin of rock with wild pinches and heel hooks. Would be a classic in a place like Squamish! 
Find the 'slackline cable' and head immediately right following green flagging and you can miss it (20 seconds)

Jaws Boulder

The Crux On Jaws V4

Guidebook: Cougar Canyon - A Bouldering Guide, By:Allen Rollin