Thursday, August 16, 2012

Free Soloing

Dean Potter on HEAVEN with Half Dome in the background

Free Soloing: To climb with no rope in a state of pure focus.
Alex Honnold and Dean Potter, both Americans have taken this to a new level. So inspiring (not that Im into free soloing 5.12) that these dudes have the focus and the skill to make it up this stuff with no rope.  Just some footage I would like to share about their feats these days. ENJOY!

Dean Potter on the Rostrum & Alien Roof Alien Roof at Yosemite with his Base Jumping pack! Free BASEing at it's finest!

Alex Honnold on his Triple Crown achievment: Mt.Watkins, El Cap and Half Dome in under 19 hours, climbing over 7,000 feet up to grades of 5.12+......Unreal! Makes my hands sweat :)


Recommended Route(s)

Lake Louise is an icon of mountain scenery and beauty, and for those who do not know, it's also an incredible climbing destination. Lake Louise boasts a huge amount scrambles, summits, icefields, ice climbs and rock climbs, basically a mecca for any type of climber. Back of the Lake is no exception. Steep exposed climbing of all kinds on bulletproof Quartzite looking over the emerald green Lake Louise. I could recommend tons of routes but recently I got on this one steep sport climb on a cool little cliff that climbs soooooo well. I didnt even know it was there after all this time. Check it out if you climb 11b, there isn't much better. And did I mention it has a wild roof to finish that will attract spectators(tourists) for a show!


Start climbing right out of the pond in a fractured crack on pinches and cool jams past two bolts. Now the game changes, crimp out to the right and pull a small roof, then climb up into a funky corner system and work your way through the crux exiting the corner. A big flake section (jugs) leads into the big roof, take a rest, clip, reach out and do it! But what do I use?......sneaky but big jugs greet you over top! So good! Old ass anchors to descend (into the pond :). Classic.


New Route/Variation at Ellison's Dog Beach Wall

A great addition to this cliff that combines two previous routes, the Dark Knight varitation climbs an awesome direct line up the aesthetic pillar over Okanagan Lake to a final overhanging finger crack through the big BAT roof.

THE DARK KNIGHT (variation) 5.10+ - 23m 
MIXED - 3 BOLTS & GEAR TO 2" ***

Start way down low at the base of the cliff at a awesome layback hand crack. Start by climbing the clean crack to a ledge then scramble over right to the arete. Climb the arete with increasing difficulty on crimps and layaways with a crux at the final bolt. Once under the roof, get into position and muscle through the very steep crack on finger locks and wild moves. Avoid moving way out right and finish direct for full value. Chains (over the edge) to lower.

Lower part of the route:

 Upper section: