Thursday, May 30, 2013

Slightly Stoopid.....

An amazing group of musicians that have really perfected their sounds of reggae, rock, funk and many other styles into one of my personal favorites. Their newer album Top of the World is among their best. They recently recorded a live jam/session that will now become my soundtrack for the summer! Check it out, listen or buy it, it's really good. And if you havent heard them before this is your chance. Have a beautiful chill and sunny summer!!!



Nelson Bouldering on Facebook

Climbing high above the tracks and the Grohman Boulders
Ladybird Roof!

With tons of potential and already many great problems Nelson & the West Kootenays provide a great bouldering experience. I created a Facebook page for everyone to congregate that is open to anyone with an account.

This will hopefully be a great place to search for partners, beta, topos (will be uploaded direct to Facebook for a quick and free download), and post photos, etc..

Here is a printable photo topo (directions) to the wonderful 'PASS CREEK' Bouldering area near the Slocan Valley 45 minutes from Nelson as well! Mostly tougher climbs here V4 and up but the Ladybird Boulder located directly beside Ladybird Creek, 2 seconds from the car is a destination in itself (Photo topo included as well!) High Quality!!!

And a big thank you goes out to Marcus Norman from Calgary for all the great info and beta! (That's his photo topo!!!)

Enjoy it out there!


From the pullout on the left walk back 10m to a cairn and piece of flagging directing you down to the creek and the Ladybird Boulder.... hard to miss.


1 - Ladybug Traverse - V2 ** 
Start far left on the face on two good holds then traverse to your right eventually out onto the lip and finish on the arete (note: a project continues past the arete and climbs the whole lip to the far right). Good warm-up!

2 - Ladybird Roof Left - V5 **
Start the same as the 'Ladybird Roof' problem but bust out to the arete on nicer holds and a juggier finish.

3 - Ladybird Roof - V7 ***
Start with a crimp and a sloper down low in the cave, now work your way out and right through a few fun sequences and a tough move right before the lip. Finish up and right. Excellent Quality! 

4 - Babylon - V9 ***
Another great problem requiring some tension filled moves. Start down low and the gain the nice slopey rail to a couple of small edges and a final chuck for the lip!

5 - Ladybird Roof Crack - V5 **
Start deep in the cave and climb the obvious off-width roof crack, burly!!!

Note: There are also a few more problems that have been done on the far right of the cave and there is a project going straight up the middle as well as some other on the mellow face on the far left. These have not been included to to lack of proper info....

Some boulder piling has been done recently to help with the creek waters that filter under the cave, feel free to add to this to make for a better landing. :)

Jason working 'Late For The Party' V7 at the Pass Creek Boulders

Wednesday, May 22, 2013

Recommended Route!

Recently I got on a fantastic 3 pitch route at Kinnaird Bluffs in Castlegar, B.C called Hail Mary. The climbing was adventurous considering that you were looking down on a wannabee suburbia development. There was bomber gear the whole way and it took some fun route finding while en route to spot the right crack (the were many running vertically down the wall). Climbed and graded many years ago, expect mostly 5.8 climbing with a couple of thoughtful (5.10a) moves and you'll be alright. All the belays are bolted, the rock is good and the climb hosts tons of fun jams, stems and even a ringlock crux. All in all a fantastic climb with some great positions!

The one correction I'd like to add is that in the guide the directions say to start at the far parking lot on the dirt road and walk along a trail at the base of the cliffs but going this way is really long and there is no trail anymore (if there was ever one). I recommend spotting the cliff (and the gravel lot underneath it) just off of 37th St, park down on the dirt road mentioned in the guidebook but instead walk back down the road to the gravel lot (between 2 houses) and up the scree to the cliff. From the end of the scree a faint trail leads to a cleared gear up spot amongst all the bush under the big roof! This brings the total walking time to a mellow 10 minutes instead of a 35 minute bushwack (while trying to avoid poison ivy) but all the while still trying to keep a low profile. :)

The Route:
Start in a blocky left facing corner feature immediately to the left of the giant roof (the only possible place to gear up). Once past the corner keep moving right on a good ledge (bring long slings) and up a really nice vertical finger to hand crack and arete, belay from a nice alcove/ledge, 30m. Second pitch; Climb the open book corner feature to a cruxy bulge (a little tree is still growing here) and another comfy belay alcove, 30m. Third pitch; Move left on to the face and climb the vertical cracks to where the cliff ends! 25m.

5.8 - Trad - Gear to 4"
3 Pitches - 75m ***

Monday, May 20, 2013

Grohman Boulders - Nelson, B.C

On The Axe V3 at the Cave Boulders

Grohman offers a wonderful, high quality, granite bouldering experience very close to Nelson. Included here is a link to a brief topo to get you climbing at this great area (and some fun pics as well!). Have fun and happy climbing!!

Nelson Bouldering Facebook Page - Grohman Guidebook Free Download

Walking back
Track Crack V0
Good views back towards Nelson

Saturday, May 4, 2013

GOTHAM CITY - Nelson, B.C - Rock Climbing

Today was a great summery day here in Nelson, so we decided to go check out this wonderful little secluded crag called Gotham City near the little town of Ymir. If you are looking for a good days worth of friendly sport climbing not far from town, then this is the place.

Hidden down amongst the trees right off the highway in a quiet spot, Gotham City hosts 13 great little sport routes on very well featured rock. The highest being about 15 meters, all the climbs pack a lot of fun in a very short time. There is something for everyone here from 5.9 to 5.11a with a bunch of great steep, sustained climbs around the 10a-10d range. The rock varies from granite, to basalt and even a little limestone-ish stuff near the bottom of the Bat Wall. All the climbs are bolted well and have great stations accessible from a trail that leads to the top that makes for some very easy top roping. Keep in mind this is a new area and of a fractured nature. Expect loose rock and some little blocks coming off time to time. Again a wonderful area that faces south and makes for a great day 20 minutes from Nelson.

Thanks to Shaun King from Mountain Sense for the development of the area! (All of the FA's are credited to S.King as well 2011)

From the 4-way stop in Nelson (reset your odometer) at the end of Baker St. follow Highway 3A south towards Salmo. You will pass the turnoff to Whitewater at 11.6kms, keep driving and after a few minutes you will end up at a big straight stretch of road. At the end of this straight strectch you will see the Hall Siding Crag on your right at about 18kms. Pass this crag and drive another 500m to 18.5kms where you will see a grassy pullout/field on your left with an ashphalt cairn. Park here but be careful of the lip on the curb for a low-clearance vehicle, especially on the way out. Now walk back on the powerline cut road (north) to a little uphill and a small rock step on your right. Turn sharply to the right here following cairns and pink flagging tape into the forest where a nice trail leads you down to the crag. A total of about 10 minutes from the car.


bat WALL

1 - ALFRED - 5.6 - SPORT - 4 BOLTS - 12M
A good beginner lead or solo, big holds!

2 - BRUCE WAYNE - 5.8 - SPORT - 5 BOLTS - 12M 
Climb the corner/arete on some big features

3 - THE JOKER - 5.10A - SPORT - 5 BOLTS - 14M *
Climb the fun, juggy overhang and finish just left of the roof

4 - BATMAN - 5.10C - SPORT - 5 BOLTS - 15M ***
Climb up some more basalt jugs with cool pinches, make some big moves through the roof and it's over. Fun climb!

5 - THE DARK KNIGHT - 5.10D - SPORT - 6 BOLTS - 15M *
A direct start to 'Batman', a few small holds leave you more pumped by the time you hit the roof.

6 - CATWOMAN - 5.10D - SPORT - 5 BOLTS - 15M **
A cruxy/bouldery start through some limestone-y rock that will make your arms tired and then into a juggy finish up the steep little corner feature. Good!

7 - THE RIDDLER - 5.10B/C - SPORT - 5 BOLTS - 15M ***
Great incut holds that lead into a hard (especially if your short) transition into the corner. Flowy climbing to the top, real good!

Climb up good holds and pull the wild roof, easier climbing ensues.

robin WALL

1 - HOLY SMOKES BATMAN - 5.9 - SPORT - 5 BOLTS - 15M *
Climb the nicely steep featured face on the far left. Nice warm-up

2 - BOY WONDER - 5.10A/B - SPORT - 5 BOLTS - 15M ***
Climb the steep arete to a wild layaway move midway. A fun thoughtful climb!

3 - TWO FACE - 5.10A - SPORT - 5 BOLTS - 13M *
Hard to start without straying off on another climb but the rest of the route climbs well

4 - BAT GIRL - 5.10A - SPORT - 4 BOLTS -12M
Climb the blocky (some sketchy stuff here) corner to a cool transition through the roof and onto the upper arete/face

5 - DICK GRAYSON - 5.9 - SPORT - 4 BOLTS - 12M
Climb the short face on the far right with some good features